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Old 12-13-2011, 06:26 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Skull County, Ca
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Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
For the crossover conversion, you can remove the original stablizer mounts as they aren't located appropriately anyway. It's a good time to consider a little armor to at least protect the ring gear and some people like to shave the drain. You are trying to get this rig low and for that you will need to think carefully about locating the steering box and/or using a flat/less drop pitman arm. I would actually consider an upgraded low steer for this type of rig. Hi steer makes getting ride height low a real pain due to frame, pan, and steering clearances. It's been a long time since I've looked, but I remember a company (OTT? OTC? something like that) was working on or had made a behind-the-axle steering setup for Toyota axles that looked pretty interesting.

I have looked for low steer arms but haven't come up with anything. I believe the rear steer you are talking about is 4x4 labs but I think it would be even more of a problem then the standard High Steer as far as clearance. I could do the old welded passenger side arm for low steer but I am not really big on welded steering components, any thoughts here?

If you're doing a traditional shock hoop for 12" travel shocks, the original shock mounts should be fine. Even going low you can probably get a hoop high enough for adequate compression travel. As an alternative, I do like the design of the Trail Gear double-shear shock mounts that incorporate a knuckle ball gusset.

Can you shoot me a like to the TG mounts? I looked on their website and didn't see just what you are refering to.

It is extremely important to get the right preload on the trunion bearings. You can do this with a fish scale and appropriate shimming. It's also important to get good alignment of the knuckle so the shaft runs centered or you can get seal failure or worse. There is a SST for the process, but if you refer to the PBB Toyota FAQs there are several alternatives to centering the knuckle.

I have read a lot on this and have the pull scale for preload setting. I will definitely do something to center the knuckles.

I have heard various arguments for packing the knuckle with grease, but my opinion is you really only need to pack the birf itself and the bearings themselves. Piling in a bunch of grease in the knuckle does no good because it's not circulated anyway and it makes replacing a birf a messy pain in the butt.

I could see the thought here and it definitely makes sense, but I would have packed a lot more grease in them then had been done before. In my closed knuckle dana 44 on my Willys I have always run 50/50 grease and gear lube in the knuckles to limit leaks and still get slung around well, is there any reason to do so with the more closed birfield joint?
Thanx for your input.
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