View Single Post
  #17  
Old 12-13-2011, 05:28 PM
TheBandit's Avatar
TheBandit TheBandit is offline
Instagram @chevyhotrodder
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ventura County CA
Posts: 4,408
For the crossover conversion, you can remove the original stablizer mounts as they aren't located appropriately anyway. It's a good time to consider a little armor to at least protect the ring gear and some people like to shave the drain. You are trying to get this rig low and for that you will need to think carefully about locating the steering box and/or using a flat/less drop pitman arm. I would actually consider an upgraded low steer for this type of rig. Hi steer makes getting ride height low a real pain due to frame, pan, and steering clearances. It's been a long time since I've looked, but I remember a company (OTT? OTC? something like that) was working on or had made a behind-the-axle steering setup for Toyota axles that looked pretty interesting.

If you're doing a traditional shock hoop for 12" travel shocks, the original shock mounts should be fine. Even going low you can probably get a hoop high enough for adequate compression travel. As an alternative, I do like the design of the Trail Gear double-shear shock mounts that incorporate a knuckle ball gusset.

It is extremely important to get the right preload on the trunion bearings. You can do this with a fish scale and appropriate shimming. It's also important to get good alignment of the knuckle so the shaft runs centered or you can get seal failure or worse. There is a SST for the process, but if you refer to the PBB Toyota FAQs there are several alternatives to centering the knuckle.

I have heard various arguments for packing the knuckle with grease, but my opinion is you really only need to pack the birf itself and the bearings themselves. Piling in a bunch of grease in the knuckle does no good because it's not circulated anyway and it makes replacing a birf a messy pain in the butt.
__________________
Clint
Reply With Quote